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Techniques for Tender vs. Crisp Pizza Crust

Ron asks: I would like to make a pizza that when fully cooked has a brown, soft, non crispy bottom crust, and is fully foldable.   When you bite into the pizza, the crust just seems to blend in with the toppings.  The crust reminds me of a cross between  pastry and pizza dough.  I’ve tried to duplicate with no luck.   Any recipe I use ends up with a crisp bottom crust.   I bake on a pizza stone at 500 degrees.  I thank you for your time in reading this and any suggestions you may have.

Baking S.O.S. says: I had to smile to myself when I read your question because I have always experienced the exact OPPOSITE problem as you: I WANT to get a nice crisp bottom crust, not a soft, tender, chewy crust.

For a long time, I could not figure out the secret to getting a dark, crisp bottom crust on my homemade pizza dough.  I tried many solutions, and I finally found that if I baked the pizza directly on a pizza stone at a very high heat (450 degrees), then my pizza crust would get nice and crispy.  You are baking at an even higher temperature (500 degrees), so that explains why your pizza crust is turning out so crispy.

If you would like a softer, more tender crust, then you need to try all the other techniques I have used that DIDN’T produce a crisp crust for me!

I don’t have any advice for a recipe that is a “cross between pastry and pizza dough” ask you asked, though perhaps you might try to search the Internet for some recipes for calzone doughs to see if that might be closer to what you are looking for, rather than straight up pizza dough.

As for baking process to get a softer crust, try these techniques:

  • Bake at a lower oven temperature: 375 degrees – 400 degrees.  The dough will bake slower and not get as dark. (baking time will be longer as a result of the lower temp)
  • Instead of baking directly on the pizza stone, bake your pizza on a pizza pan or a metal sheet pan.  You can place the pan directly on the pizza stone or eliminate the stone all together.  When I used a metal pan to bake pizzas, the crust NEVER came out crisp.  It was always soft and chewy.
  • Do not pre-bake or par-bake the crust in any way.  Simply take the raw dough, place it in the pan, add sauce & toppings and bake.  I find that par-baking the pizza dough can help produce a crisper crust, so avoid that step all together if you want to keep the crust tender.

I hope those techniques will help you achieve the results you desire in your pizza crust.  Good luck!

How to be sure a Pound Cake bakes thoroughly

Toney asks: I have a question about baking a cake, a pound cake in this instance.  I have baked pound cake for the pass 30 years and have never had this problem before. My cakes will not bake all the way through.  I have had my stove checked and they found nothing wrong.  I have thrown away three cakes and a few pies.  Very frustrating. Hope you can help.

Baking S.O.S.: This sounds like a frustrating experience–especially since nothing seems to be wrong with your oven.

The only thing I can suggest is to simply bake your pound cake (or pies, since you mentioned that was a problem, too) longer and be sure to test for doneness before removing them from the oven.

If your pound cake looks like it is getting too done or too brown before it is fully baked through the center, then try turning the oven temperature down by 25 degrees until it finishes baking all the way through.

To test for doneness, I would suggest using a long wooden skewer–rather than a wooden toothpick–because pound cakes can be very deep and dense.  A toothpick will only be able to check the cake to a certain depth because it is short, but a wooden skewer can check all the way through.  Be sure the skewer comes out with no batter or only dry cake crumbs on it.  It is also a good idea to check the cake in several spots, just to be sure.

Good luck!

How to Keep Cakes Fresh? Freezing is the Best Solution

Rowena asks: I’m a cake decorator more than a baker – but because I’m also a cook – I can get particular about the taste and the texture of my baked goods. I have collected some pretty good recipes for cakes and cupcakes – taste wise but am challenged with the texture. When I have to make large batches of cupcakes (or deal with big quantities of orders), I would bake the cupcakes about 2 days ahead and  frost them the day before I deliver them. The problem with this is by the time I deliver them, the cake texture becomes dry. Without freezing the cakes (because by this time,my freezer would already be full of cakes), how do I keep the cakes moist for 2 days or until I deliver them?

Baking S.O.S. says:The short answer to your question is: buy a bigger freezer!I have always said that a pastry chef’s most valuable tool is a freezer because freezing baked goods will preserve the freshness much better than allowing baked goods to sit out at room temperature for a few days.As you have experienced, cakes tend to dry out after they sit at room temperature for a couple of days.  There is no way to prevent that from happening EXCEPT by freezing the cakes until you are ready to decorate and serve them.  Freezing will preserve the cakes at the state of freshness they are when you put them in the freezer, so if you freeze them as soon as they are baked and completely cooled, then they will be much fresher than if they sit out for 2 days.Furthermore, I understand completely that it is not possible or realistic to make every cake right before an order is due.  Every professional baker/bakery must make things in stages or in advance before finishing for final service/delivery.

So the only viable solution is to get more freezer storage space.  Best of luck!

What Makes a Cake Moist & Substituting Yogurt in a Cake Recipe

“Sassy Suzanne” asks: How do you insure a moist cake or cupcake?  Is it the oil or butter?  When can you switch to yogurt?  is it interchangeable? Also, when adding fresh fruit – How do you determine the amount?  I was concerned about the rise and moisture of the end product.

Baking S.O.S. says: Thank you for the challenging questions!

There are a number of factors that contribute to the moistness of a cake or cupcake, including the fat (oil or butter, as you mentioned), the amount of sugar, the amount and type of liquid called for in the recipe, and even the eggs!  Although eggs help provide structure to hold all of the other ingredients together when the proteins set during baking, eggs also contain water, so they contribute to the overall moisture content of baked goods.

So when making substitutions in a cake recipe, the moisture content will be affected, as well.

In the case of yogurt specifically, I have found recipes that substitute yogurt for the eggs, the liquid, sour cream, and the oil or butter.  So depending on which ingredient you want to substitute the yogurt for, it will affect the outcome of the finished cake, but it is difficult to predict exactly HOW the finished cake will be affected.  You simply have to find out through experimentation.

To determine how much yogurt to substitute for various ingredients, check out this article from Taste of Home. According to the article, it is not a 1-for-1 exact substitution when using yogurt for lower-fat baking, so you will need to do some calculations depending on where you want to substitute the yogurt.  Good luck!

New Twists on Thanksgiving Favorites: Pumpkin Pie and Pecan Pie

Last week, I taught two baking classes: How to make pie from scratch with the theme: “New Twists on Thanksgiving Favorites.”  I chose to make Pumpkin Pie and Pecan Pie because those are MY two favorite pies for Thanksgiving.

Creating a new twist on Pecan Pie was easy: pecan pie always tastes better with chocolate (doesn’t everything?!), and I added a little bourbon, as well–a common addition to Pecan Pie.

Pumpkin Pie was a little trickier because it tastes so good as is, I didn’t want to completely change the flavor profile or it would be “alienating” to people: no one would want to stray too far from our fond memories of Pumpkin Pie as the quintessential dessert at Thanksgiving feasts.

I have tried recipes that add cream cheese to the pumpkin pie filling, and I admit that I like the flavor combination of pumpkin and cream cheese together.  However, it seems like those flavors work better together in a cheesecake than in a pie [a pumpkin cheesecake for Thanksgiving would be a fabulous dessert if you are looking for something different!].

In the end, I only added a few subtle flavors to enhance the Pumpkin Pie recipe rather than change it completely: a little bit of orange zest–because orange and pumpkin pair nicely together, too–and a bit of spiced dark rum.  The flavors create a pleasant surprise without straying too far from the original.

Here, I share those new twists on Thanksgiving favorites with you.  If you need a good pie crust recipe, I highly recommend the Never Fail Pie Crust.  It’s quick, easy, and true to it’s name: a delicious made-from-scratch pie crust that can’t go wrong.  Happy Thanksgiving!

Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie

Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter, melted
3 eggs, beaten
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup dark corn syrup
2 tablespoons bourbon liquor
1 1/2 cups pecan halves
1/2 cup mini semi-sweet chocolate morsels
1 (9-inch) unbaked pie shell

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Melt butter in a microwave. Set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, whisk eggs.  Stir in brown sugar, flour, vanilla extract, corn syrup and bourbon until combined. Add butter and stir all to combine. Stir in the pecans and chocolate morsels. Pour mixture into pie shell.
4. Place on a sheet tray and bake for 50 to 60 minutes until pie filling is set in the middle.
5. Remove pie from oven to a wire rack. Allow to cool completely before serving.

Orange-Spice Pumpkin Pie

Ingredients

Flaky Pie Crust Dough

1 15-ounce can pure pumpkin
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons spiced dark rum or Grand Marnier
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon orange zest
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 12-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch-diameter glass pie dish. Fold overhang under and crimp decoratively. Pierce dough all over with fork.
2. Line crust with parchment paper; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until sides are set, about 12 minutes. Remove parchment paper and beans. Bake until crust begins to color, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer crust to rack.
3. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.
4. Whisk pumpkin and brown sugar in medium bowl to blend. Add all remaining ingredients and whisk until blended. Pour filling into crust. Bake pie until filling is set in center, about 1 hour.
5. Transfer pie to rack; cool 30 minutes. Chill uncovered until cold, at least 3 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled.)

Why does a cake sink as it cools?

Linda says: Help!!   I have been baking for over 40 years.  Lately, my cakes are sinking in the middle.  In the oven, the cakes rise great.  I do not open the door until timer goes off.  Then I check cakes for doneness with a tester.  The center comes out clean.  I proceed to take cake out of oven.  While cooling, it starts to sink.  What am I doing wrong?  My measurements of ingredients are exact.  I bought new baking soda & baking powder.  Still they sink.  I am baking for a bake sale on Saturday.  My shoofly pies sank some in the middle.  HELP!!!!

Baking S.O.S. says: It sounds like you have done everything right, so it is a complete mystery as to why your cakes suddenly started sinking when they never did before.

The only explanation I can think of might be if you oven is starting to bake inconsistently as it ages.  You could try putting an oven thermometer in the oven to check the actual temperate as it is baking. (Turn on the oven light to check the oven temp without opening the door.)

Another possibility might be if you are baking with a gas oven.  I learned recently from a service person that installed a new gas range at my workplace that the pressure through the gas lines can fluctuate quite a bit, especially in the colder months.  With the fluctuations in gas pressure comes fluctuations in baking temperature, and there is no way to control that, unfortunately.

The only suggestion I can give you is my own solution to the same problem that I was experiencing with my favorite cake recipe: I simply added a little baking powder to force the cake to rise up a little more.  The extra baking powder helped the cake to stay risen, even after removing it from the oven and cooling it.

I hope you can find a solution that will work for you.  Good luck!

Pastry Cream and Fresh Fruit Trifle recipes from the Country Living Fair 2011 Demonstration

Baking S.O.S. was invited by the organizers of the Country Living Magazine Fair to do a baking demonstration during their 2011 Fair in Columbus, Ohio.  I was scheduled to speak just before several TV show personalities, so I felt a little like a celebrity myself as I gave my demo to an over-flowing audience of at least 100 people (or more!).

As the Executive Chef of Local Matters, I wanted to use as many local foods in my demonstration as possible, so I used farm-fresh eggs from Manchester Hill Farm, whole milk and heavy cream from Snowville Creamery, delicious fresh peaches from Hirsch Fruit Farm, and even a few raspberries from my own back yard.  I made Pastry Cream, which is similar to vanilla pudding, only 1,000 times more delicious when you make it from scratch using quality ingredients.  Then I used the Pastry Cream to make a Peaches and Cream Trifle topped with Snowville Creamery Whipped Cream.  Delicious!!

The recipes AND the tasting samples disappeared in a hurry, so I am posting the recipe here for anyone who didn’t get a copy of the recipe to take home.  Enjoy!

Pastry Cream
2 cups whole milk
2 egg yolks
1 egg
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 Tbls. cornstarch
2 Tbls. unsalted butter, diced
1 ½ tsp. vanilla extract

Directions:
In a medium saucepan, scald the milk.  Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, egg & sugar together in a large stainless steel bowl. Then sift the cornstarch into the mixture and whisk all together. Slowly temper the scalded milk into the egg & sugar mixture, then pour into a separate clean saucepan. Over medium heat, stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it comes to a boil & thickens. Remove the pan from heat & stir in butter & vanilla until completely blended. Strain the pastry cream into a shallow pan. Immediately cover with plastic wrap touching the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Chill immediately.

To assemble a trifle, you will need:

•    3 8-inch round cake layers
•    1 cup flavored simple syrup*
•    1 recipe Pastry Cream
•    2 pints of assorted fresh fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, mango, kiwi—washed and sliced, plus extra whole fruit for garnish
•    1 recipe Chantilly Cream*

Directions:
1. Place 1 layer of cake on the bottom of a 9-inch round glass trifle bowl. Using a pastry brush or spray bottle, soak the cake layer with simple syrup.
2. Spread half the pastry cream over the cake layer. Top with 1 pint of assorted fruit.
3. Repeat layers. Top with last layer of cake. Decorate top of trifle with Chantilly Cream and garnish wish additional whole fruits around the edge.

*Simple Syrup
•    1 cup granulated sugar
•    1 cup water
•    ¼ cup fruit-flavored liqueur, such as Chambord, Grand Marnier, Apricot Brandy, Crème de Cassis, etc. OR 1 Tbls. Vanilla extract

Directions:
Place sugar and water in a medium saucepan over high heat. Stir until sugar dissolves, then stop stirring and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add liqueur or vanilla for flavor. Allow to cool to room temp. before using.

*Chantilly Cream
•    1 pint heavy whipping cream
•    ¼ cup granulated sugar
•    1 ½ tsp. vanilla extract

Directions:
Chill a stainless steel mixing bowl and whisk in the freezer for 15 minutes before beginning. Place whipping cream in a well-chilled stainless steel bowl. Whip by hand or machine on medium speed until cream begins to thicken slightly. Gradually add in sugar slowly while continuing to beat. Add vanilla extract, increase speed to high and whip to medium peaks. Use immediately or store in frige for several hours. Re-whip as necessary before serving.

Zucchini Bread falls in the middle & sticks to the pan

Bruce asks: When baking zucchini bread the loaves rise nicely while baking, but they fall in the middle. What can be done to prevent this?

The bread also wants to stick. We are using stainless steel pans, Baker’s Secret spray and a convection oven. How do I prevent it from sticking to the pan?

Baking S.O.S. says: It sounds like your zucchini bread isn’t getting done all the way through the middle.  Under-baked quick breads are characterized by rising nicely in the oven and then falling as they cool out of the oven–exactly what you described.

To be certain your zucchini bread is completely done before you remove it from the oven, you can try several methods to test for doneness [and sometimes using more than 1 method helps!]:

  • Insert a wooden toothpick or skewer deep in the center of the zucchini bread.  You can also test in several different spots to be sure, if you like.  It should come out clean or with dry crumbs on it.
  • Press the top of the zucchini bread gently in the center.  If it bounces back, it is done in the middle.  If you can hear it “squish,” it is still wet in the center.
  • Appearance: it should look golden brown all over, not just around the edges.

As for preventing the bread from sticking when you remove it from the pan, definitely keep using the Baker’s Secret spray.  You could also line the bottom of the pan with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit the pan.  I always use parchment paper as a liner to keep cakes from sticking to the bottom of the pan.  Lastly, you could run a knife gently around the edges of the pan before you remove the zucchini bread to help loosen it before you take it out.

I should mention that you do not want to try to remove the zucchini bread from the pan while it is still hot.  Tempting as it may be to want to try a piece as soon as it comes out of the oven, DON’T!  It will be much more likely to stick to the pan and crumble if you try to remove it when it’s hot.  Let it cool to room temperature in the pan before you try to remove it.

Good luck!

Dense Strawberry Cupcakes: How to Aid Leavening

JoAnne asks: I used the following recipe to make Strawberry Cupcakes.  Followed directions and measured the ingredients.  The cupcakes look great BUT were very dense and dry.  I took them out of the oven right when the toothpick came out clean which was after 21 minutes. I’m using an oven I have never used before and its temperature reading isn’t digital, would this be the case?  I have also tried another recipe using buttermilk, baking powder, AND soda and still ended up with very dense cupcakes. HELP! Thanks!

Strawberry Cupcakes

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour , sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. coarse salt
1/4 cup whole milk , room temperature
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter , room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 large egg , room temperature
2 large egg whites , room temperature

Directions
Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with cupcake liners; set aside.

Place strawberries in a small food processor; process until pureed. You should have about 1/3 cup of puree. Add a few more strawberries if necessary, or save any extra puree for frosting; set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside. In a small bowl, mix together milk, vanilla and strawberry puree; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter on medium-high speed, until light and fluffy. Gradually add sugar and continue to beat until well combined and fluffy. Reduce the mixer speed to medium and slowly add egg and egg whites until just blended.

With the mixer on low, slowly add half the flour mixture; mix until just blended. Add the milk mixture; mix until just blended. Slowly add remaining flour mixture, scraping down sides of the bowl with a spatula, as necessary, until just blended.

Divide batter evenly among prepared muffin cups. Transfer muffin tin to oven and bake until tops are just dry to the touch, 22 to 25 minutes. Transfer muffin tin to a wire rack and let cupcakes cool completely in tin before icing.

Baking S.O.S. says: Thank you for sending the recipe along with your question.  It helps in trying to analyze what may have gone wrong.

Let’s start with the oven: Since you haven’t used it before, it’s possible that the oven could be one source of the problem. I would suggest placing an oven thermometer in the oven when you preheat it to get a reading on the actual temperature. Sometimes ovens can fluctuate quite a bit from the set temperature, producing uneven results. Very frustrating!

Is the oven gas or electric? Electric ovens are supposed to bake more evenly than gas.  I recently had a new gas oven installed at work, and the installer told me that the rate of gas flow through the lines can ebb and flow, producing very uneven baking results as the oven gets hotter and cooler.

So the oven could be one reason why the cupcakes dried out during the baking process if it was actually hotter than the set temperature.

As for the dense cupcakes, it sounds like a leavening problem. There are several things I noticed in the recipe you used:

1) The recipe uses the “Creaming Method” to mix the cake. Most recipes do not specify how to properly cream a batter (whether it be cakes, cookies, or muffins) using the Creaming Method.  Recipes–like this one–usually say to beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffly.  What they DON’T tell you is that you need to use an electric mixer set on medium speed (4-6 setting) and beat with the paddle attachment for 8-10 minutes. I know that sounds like a lot, but it will incorporate much more air into the batter if you beat it for a long time, and air bubbles help the cake rise as it bakes.

2) I noticed that the recipe called for egg whites in addition to a whole egg.  Typically, when cake batters call for egg whites, they include an extra step in the mixing process that this recipe is missing.  Again, this extra step also helps with the leavening of the cake batter.

Rather than adding the egg whites into the cake batter along with the whole egg, try whipping the egg whites separately into an egg foam to medium peaks (this means that the egg foam should barely stand up when you lift the whip out of the foam). This can best be accomplished with an electric mixer with a whip attachment, but you could also whip by hand with a wire whisk and a stainless steel bowl.

Once you have whipped the egg whites to a medium peak, very gently fold them into the finished cake batter as the final step (after you have incorporated the dry and wet ingredients).  Again, the air that you whip into the egg whites can also help leaven the cake.  This is called the “Sponge Method.”

If all else fails, you could try adding just a little bit of baking powder to try to force the cake to rise a little more.  However, keep in mind that too much baking powder will make the cake taste bitter.

I hope that helps.  Good luck!

Chocolate Zucchini Muffins

Do you have an abundance of zucchini growing in your garden or arriving in your CSA delivery every week?  If so, try this recipe for a different twist on zucchini.  It’s delicious!

Chocolate Zucchini Muffins

Ingredients
2 ¾ C. all-purpose flour
¼ C. cocoa powder
1 tsp. baking soda
¼  tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
3 C. sugar
1 C. canola oil
3 large eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
3 C. grated zucchini
1 C. chocolate chips

Directions
1. Sift dry ingredients together in a medium bowl. Set aside.
2. Mix sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla together in a separate large mixing bowl (or electric mixer).
3. Add in zucchini, then add dry ingredients and mix until just combined.
4. Stir in chocolate chips by hand.
5. Line muffin tins with paper liners and spray with cooking spray.  Fill pans ? full with batter.
6. Bake in a preheated 350 degree F oven for 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Yield: 2 ½ dozen muffins